Danish cuisine

Danish cuisine (Danish: Dansk køkken), originating from the peasant population's own local produce, was enhanced by cooking techniques developed in the late 19th century and the wider availability of goods after the Industrial Revolution. The open sandwiches, known as smørrebrød, which in their basic form are the usual fare for lunch, can be considered a national speciality when prepared and decorated with a variety of fine ingredients. Hot meals traditionally consist of ground meats, such as frikadeller (meat balls), or of more substantial meat and fish dishes such as flæskesteg (roast pork with crackling) or kogt torsk (poached cod) with mustard sauce and trimmings. Denmark is known for its Carlsberg and Tuborg beers and for its akvavit and bitters although imported wine is now gaining popularity.

Danish chefs, inspired by continental practices, have in recent years developed an innovative series of gourmet dishes based on high-quality local produce. As a result, Copenhagen and the provinces now have a considerable number of highly acclaimed restaurants, of which several have been awarded Michelin stars.

Contents 1 History 2 New Danish cuisine (Det ny nordiske køkken) 3 Main meals 3.1 Breakfast (morgenmad) 3.2 Lunch (frokost) 3.3 Dinner (aftensmad) 4 Open sandwiches (smørrebrød) 5 Cold table (koldt bord) 6 Options for dinner 6.1 Appetizer (forret) 6.2 Soups (supper) 6.3 Main dishes (hovedretter) 6.4 Traditional main course dishes 6.5 Desserts (desserter) 7 Christmas festivities 7.1 Christmas lunch (julefrokost) 7.2 Christmas dinner at home 8 Eating out 8.1 Restaurants 8.2 Hot dog vans (pølsevogn) 8.3 Cafés 9 Other popular foods 9.1 Potatoes 9.2 Vegetables and salads 9.3 Sauces and condiments 9.4 Cheese (ost) 9.5 Seasonings and herbs (krydderier) 9.6 Fruit (frugt) 9.7 Baked goods (brød og kager) 9.8 Confections (konfekt) 10 Drinks (drikkevarer) 11 Criticism 12 Frøken Jensens Kogebog 13 See also 14 References 15 Bibliography 16 External links

History

Danish cooking is rooted in the peasant dishes served across the country before the Industrial Revolution in 1860. It was based on the need to make use of natural products available on the family farm or in the neighborhood. As a result, potatoes, bread and salted pork were eaten everywhere. Families had their own store of long-lasting dry products, rye for making bread, barley for beer, dried peas for soup and smoked or salted pork.^[1] While industrialization brought increases in the consumption of fresh meat and green vegetables, rye bread and potatoes continued to be staples.^[2] With the arrival of cooperatives in the second half of the 19th century, milk also gained favor. Wood-fired ovens and meat grinders contributed to a range of new dishes including frikadeller (meat balls), roast pork, poached cod and steaks of ground beef. Desserts of stewed fruits such as rødgrød date from the same period.^[1]

Over the centuries, sausage, which was not only economical but could be kept for long periods, was together with rye bread behind the development of smorrebrød. By the end of the 18th century, there were several different kinds of sausage but the preparation of cold meat products developed rapidly in the 1840s when the French butcher Francois Louis Beauvais opened a business in Copenhagen. In the 1880s, Oskar Davidsen opened a restaurant specializing in smorrebrød with a long list of open sandwiches. Leverpostej (liver paste) became available in grocery shops at the end of the 19th century but it was some time before its price was comparable with that of cold cuts. Around the same time, the one-hour lunch break which had allowed people to enjoy a hot midday meal was shortened to 30 minutes, encouraging them to take a few pieces of smørrebrød to work in a lunch box. In the 1920s and 1930s, tomatoes and cucumbers were added as a topping to the cold cuts. In the 1940s, Henry Stryhn popularized leverpostej by making deliveries around Copenhagen on his bicycle.^[3]

In the 1960s and 1970s, with the availability of deep frozen goods, the concept of fast food arrived together with an interest in Mediterranean dishes as Danes travelled more widely. By the 1990s, ingredients were being imported from the south while new products were farmed at home, providing a basis for a developing interest in gourmet dishes. Much of the inspiration came from France, as Danish chefs went on television explaining how to prepare dishes such as canard à l'orange or authentic sauce Béarnaise. A younger generation of chefs soon started to travel abroad themselves, learning how to adapt the expertise of French and Spanish chefs to the use of local ingredients as a basis for creating beautifully presented, finely flavoured Nordic dishes. As a result, in recent years Danish chefs have helped to put Denmark on the world gastronomic map, with several Michelin-starred restaurants in Copenhagen and the provinces.^[2]

New Danish cuisine (Det ny nordiske køkken)

Danish cuisine has also taken advantage of the possibilities inherent in traditional recipes, building on the use of local products and techniques that have not been fully exploited. Products such as rapeseed, oats, cheeses and older varieties of fruits are being redisovered and prepared in new ways both by restaurants and at home as interest in organic foods continues to grow. The Nordic Council's agricultual and food ministers have supported these developments in the form of a manifesto designed to encourage the use of natural produce from the Nordic countries in the food production industry while promoting the "purity, freshness, simplicity and ethics" associated with the region's cuisine.^[4]

In both 2010 and 2011 the Copenhagen restaurant Noma (short for nordisk mad - Nordic food) was named the world's best restaurant by the Restaurant magazine.^[5]

The Danish chef Claus Meyer has his own show about Nordic cuisine on BBC Lifestyle.^[6] His recent book Almanak contains 365 new cuisine recipes, one for each day of the year.^[7]

Main meals

Most Danes have three regular meals a day, usually consisting of a cold breakfast with coffee, a cold lunch at work and a hot dinner at home with the family. Some also have a snack in the middle of the afternoon or in the late evening. Meat, especially pork, is by far the most common ingredient of hot meals. It is usually accompanied by potatoes and sometimes by another vegetable such as carrots or lettuce. Most hot meals consist of only one course: starters are fairly rare but desserts such as ice cream or fruit are a little more frequent. Beer and wine are fairly common drinks at mealtimes but so are soft drinks, plain water and, to a lesser extent, milk and coffee.^[8] Many families follow the old traditions. Mothers and fathers cook together and teach their children how to cook. Meals form an important part of family life, contributing to the sense of the well-being known as hygge.^[9]

Breakfast (morgenmad)

The basic Danish breakfast consists of coffee or tea and rye bread, white bread or rolls with cheese or jam. Cereals such as corn flakes, muesli and oatmeal are also popular, particularly with children. A typical local breakfast dish is ymerdrys, consisting of the soured milk product ymer (unique to Denmark) topped with a mixture of grated rye bread and brown sugar. When time permits, for example on Sundays, a variety of bread rolls can be included as well as wienerbrød (literally Viennese bread) as Danish pastry is known in Denmark. Orange juice may also be served or even a bitters such as Gammel Dansk, especially when breakfast is served to guests on the occasion of a birthday, anniversary or similar celebration.^[10] In Danish hotels, boiled eggs and cold meats are usually served for breakfast too.^[11]

Bread at breakfast time most often comes in the form of a white loaf known as franskbrød (French bread), a baguette, or a variety of white or brown rolls (boller, birkes, rundstykker, håndværkere) or croissants.^[12]

Lunch (frokost)

In Denmark, lunch is usually a cold meal consisting of a few simply prepared pieces of smørrebrød (open rye-bread sandwiches) with slices of cold meat, sausage or hard boiled egg. Leverpostej, a liver paste prepared from pig's liver and lard, is also frequently used as a spread.^[13] Rather than eating at home, most Danes have a quick lunch at work or school either in the cafeteria, if there is one, or more often in the form of a packed lunch or madpakke prepared before they leave home. This typically consists of a few pieces of smørrebrød (see Open sandwiches below).^[1]

Dinner (aftensmad)

For the average family, dinner is the one meal of the day where everyone can be gathered, due to the pressures of the modern life where both parents are likely to work, and the children are in school or pre-school institutions. Dinner usually consists of just one main course, often a meat dish with potatoes and a vegetable or salad. Starters are seldom served at home. If there is a dessert, it is likely to be ice cream or a fruit dish. Much more elaborate dinners are served on special occasions or when guests have been invited.^[14]

Confusingly, the evening meal is sometimes called middag (midday) because hot meals were traditionally served in the middle of the day. Over the past few decades, the meal has developed as a result of the increasing availability of foods from supermarkets as well as the growth of the local food industry. As a result of American influence, there is now considerable interest in barbecues, salad buffets and ready-to-serve dishes. Italian preparations including pizza and pasta have also become common options. Meat is increasingly popular, pork still remaining the most frequently served. Cuts are often prepared in the frying pan and accompanied by brown gravy and potatoes.^[14]

Open sandwiches (smørrebrød)

Smørrebrød (originally smør og brød, meaning "butter and bread") usually consists of a piece of buttered rye bread (rugbrød), a dense, dark brown bread. Pålæg (meaning put-on, actually "that which is laid on [the bread]"), the topping, then among others can refer to commercial or homemade cold cuts, pieces of meat or fish, cheese or spreads. More elaborate, finely decorated varieties have contributed to the international reputation of the Danish open sandwich or smørrebrød. A slice or two of pålæg is placed on the buttered bread and decorated with the right accompaniments to create a tasty and visually appealing food item.^[15]

Some traditional examples include:^[16]

• Dyrlægens natmad (Veterinarian's late night snack). On a piece of dark rye bread, a layer of liver paté (leverpostej), topped with a slice of salt kød (salted beef) and a slice of sky (meat jelly). This is all decorated with raw onion rings and garden cress.^[17]
• Røget ål med røræg Smoked eel on dark rye bread, topped with scrambled eggs, herbs and a slice of lemon.
• Leverpostej Warm rough-chopped liverpaste served on dark rye bread, topped with bacon, and sauteed mushrooms. Additions can include lettuce and sliced pickled cucumber.
• Roast beef, thinly sliced and served on dark rye bread, topped with a portion of remoulade, and decorated with a sprinkling of shredded horseradish and crispy fried onions.
• Roast pork (ribbensteg), thinly sliced and served on dark rye bread, topped with red cabbage, and decorated with a slice of orange.
• Rullepølse, (rolled stuffed pork) with a slice of meat jelly, onions, tomatoes and parsley.
• Tartar, with salt and pepper, served on dark rye bread, topped with raw onion rings, grated horseradish and a raw egg yolk.
• Røget laks. Slices of cold smoked salmon on white bread, topped with shrimp and decorated with a slice of lemon and fresh dill.
• Stjerneskud (lit. shooting star). On a base of buttered toast, two pieces of fish: a piece of steamed white fish on one half, a piece of fried, breaded plaice or rødspætte on the other half. On top is piled a mound of shrimp, which is then decorated with a dollop of mayonnaise, sliced cucumber, caviar or blackened lumpfish roe, and a lemon slice.^[18]

Cold table (koldt bord)

The Danish koldt bord or cold buffet corresponds to its Swedish counterpart, the smörgåsbord. It is usually served at lunch time. The cold table may be a buffet arrangement or the many and varied items may be brought to the dining table and passed around family-style.^[19]

The meal begins with fish, usually pickled herring (marinerede sild), or another herring dish. The herring is normally marinated either in a clear sweet, peppery vinegar sauce (white herring), or in a red seasoned vinegar (red herring).^[20] It may also come in a variety of sour cream-based sauces, including a curry sauce which is very popular. The white herring is typically served on buttered, black rye bread, topped with white onion rings and curry salad (a sour-cream based sauce, flavored with curry and chopped pickles), and served with hard boiled eggs and tomato slices. Herring can also be found which is first fried, and then marinated this is called "stegte sild i eddike" (lit.: Fried herring in vinegar). On extra festive occasions a prepared silderet (herring dish) might be served in which the herring pieces are placed in a serving dish along with other ingredients. Examples might be herring, sliced potato, onions and capers topped with a dill sour cream/mayonnaise sauce, or herring, apple pieces, and horseradish topped with a curry sour-cream/mayonnaise sauce.^[19] Other fish dishes may include:^[21]

• Rejer (shrimps), usually served on white bread with mayonnaise and lemon
• Røget ål (smoked eel) with scrambled egg
• Gravad laks (salt-cured salmon) with a dill and mustard sauce
• Rødspættefilet (breaded filets of plaice), served hot with lemon and remoulade
• Røget laks (smoked salmon)
• Røget hellefisk (smoked halibut)

The cold table also consists of a wide variety of meat dishes and, despite its name, nearly always includes a few items which are served hot. Some of the more common components are:^[21]

• Frikadeller (meat balls), sometimes hot,
• Leverpostej (liver paste), sometimes hot, with pickled beetroot, mushrooms or fried bacon
• Mørbradbøf (pork tenderloin), sometimes hot, with fried onions
• Flæskesteg (roast pork) with crackling, usually with red cabbage
• Medisterpølse (coarsely ground pork and bacon sausage)
• Pariserbøf (ground beef steak), usually served hot on toast with pickles

There will also be cold cuts such as hams, roast beef, salami, brisket of beef and spiced roulade. Buffets usually include accompaniments such as potato salad, scrambled egg and a variety of salads. Desserts such as fruit salad and fruit pies as well as various cheeses may also be included.^[21]

Options for dinner

The everyday evening meal for most Danes consists of a main course and perhaps a dessert. At weekends and on special occasions, a more elaborate meal is served. Good restaurants usually serve a three course dinner. While an ever wider range of foreign foods are available in Denmark, traditional dishes are still popular. A selection of the more common options is given below.^[16]

Appetizer (forret)

The first course is typically fish, although a wide variety of other appetizers are becoming more common. Common traditional appetizers include:

• Shrimp cocktail (rejecocktail)
• Seafood or fish paté or terrine, served with bread

Soups (supper)

Soup is often a meal on its own, or served with bread. It can also be served before the main dish. In addition to soups common outside of Denmark, specialities include:

• Gule ærter (split pea soup), a meal in itself served together with salted pork, carrots and other vegetables
• Hønsekødssuppe (chicken soup) served with melboller (small flour dumplings), meatballs and cubed vegetables.

Main dishes (hovedretter)

Fish, seafood and meat are prominent parts of any traditional Danish dish.

Denmark has a long tradition of fishing, since it is surrounded by the sea, consisting of many islands and a 7000 kilometer coastline. Fish consumption is a natural part of the Danish food tradition.

The most commonly eaten fish and seafood are:

• Cod (torsk), a common white fish in general food preparation (baked, steamed, fried). It is also dried (klipfisk). Prices have risen in recent years, making this once-favorite fish drop down the list. It has mainly been replaced by other white fish, such as haddock and ling.
• Norway lobster (jomfruhummer)
• Eel (ål), smoked or fried. Smoked eel is almost exalted in some homes.
• Herring (sild), a whole section should be written about Danish herring dishes. Most involve the herring served cold after being pickled.
• Plaice (rødspætte), in the form of fried, battered fish filets or as a common white fish in general food preparation (baked, steamed, fried)
• Salmon (laks) -- smoked or gravad lox style. Cooked salmon has become much more common in recent times, and is now fairly widespread.
• Shrimp (rejer) -- Small shrimp from the north Atlantic are most common. Fjord shrimp are a rare delicacy: very small and flavorful, about the size of the smallest fingernail.
• Roe (rogn) -- Fish eggs from cod, lumpfish (stenbider) and salmon.

Fish from Bornholm, Iceland and Greenland also has a special place in the Danish cuisine. The island of Bornholm, a part of Denmark located in the Baltic Sea, to the east of Denmark, the south of Sweden, and the north of Poland, is noted for its smoked fish items. Iceland and Greenland have long shared histories with Denmark, and the fish from these North Atlantic lands is a sign of quality.

As regards meat-eating, the Danes primarily eat pork: salted and smoked pork, hams, pork roasts, pork tenderloin, pork cutlets and chops are all popular. Ground pork meat is used in many traditional recipes requiring ground meat. Danish bacon is generally of good quality (in Denmark; exported Danish bacon is of exceptional quality), and available in both the striped and back varieties. While still in first place, pork has lost ground to turkey, beef and veal in recent years.

Beef is also very popular in the modern Danish kitchen. Danish cattle is primarily used for dairy and Denmark has a centuries-old tradition of dairy products. Hence, cattle bred for its meat was rare and thus expensive. Dairy cattle rarely makes good meat cattle - especially after several years as dairy cows. For that reason beef has usually been ground and cooked as patties or cooked as boiled roast or soup. Today steaks are nevertheless popular. Especially culotte steak is a classic dish to serve for guests.

Chicken is also popular, both served in the old traditional way, but also as a tray of frozen chicken pieces ready to put into the oven, lørdagskylling (lit. Saturday chicken) which is a quick and cheap way to feed a family.^[22]

Traditional main course dishes

• Boller i karry, meat balls in curry served with rice and cucumber salad.
• Gammeldags kylling, old fashioned pan-cooked chicken, served with cucumber salad, rhubarb compot, potatoes and brown sauce.
• Frikadeller, meat balls made of pork and veal with spices.
• Hakkebøf, ground beef steak with soft caramelized onions and brown sauce.
• Æbleflæsk (literally apple pork), fried pork slices served with a compot of apple, onion and bacon.
• Stegt flæsk med persillesovs, slices of fried pork served with potatoes and parsley sauce.
• Medisterpølse, thick, spicy sausage made of minced pork.
• Æggekage (egg cake) -- similar to an omelette.
• Påskelam (Easter lamb) grilled lamb with dry herbs and garlic.
• Culottesteg, top sirloin steak with dry herbs served with potatoes and green salad.
• Stegt and, roast duck prepared like roast goose, stuffed with baked apples, prunes and thyme.
• Stegt gås, roast goose is a traditional Danish Christmas dish and also served for Morten's aften (St. Martin's Day, November 11).
• Flæskesteg, roast pork with crackling, often served at Christmas.
• Rødkål, red cabbage with duck grease, sugar, vinager, apple, onion, red wine and spices such as cloves, bay leaves, cinnamon, cardamom and allspice. Served for Christmas.
• Brunede kartofler, caramelized potatoes made with sugar and butter. Served for Christmas.
• Øllebrød (beer bread), a pudding made of rye bread, sugar and beer
• Millionbøf, (translated: million steak), gravy filled with tiny pieces of beef (a million tiny steaks) poured over pasta or mashed potatoes.
• Brændende kærlighed (literally "burning love"), mashed potatoes made with butter and milk or cream. A well is made in the top of the mashed potatoes into which fried diced bacon and onions are filled.
• Risengrød, (rice porridge), a dish that has a special relationship to Christmas. It is traditionally the favorite dish of the Nisse. Usually served with butter, cinnamon sugar and nisseøl. It is also the basis of the Danish Christmas dessert Ris á la mande.

Desserts (desserter)

• Strawberry pie, very popular in the summer.
• Apple pie, oven baked.
• Æblekage, (apple charlotte). Stewed apple topped with bread crumbs and crushed almond-flavoured meringue or whipped cream, served cold.
• Fruit salad topped with vanilla cream or whipped cream and grated chocolate
• Rødgrød med fløde, stewed, thickened red fruit (usually strawberries or rhubarb) with cream or as topping on ice cream.
• Pandekager, a thin, crepe-like pancake, rolled up, often sprinkled with confectioner's sugar, and served with strawberry jam or vanilla ice cream.
• Koldskål. A sweet cold butter milk dish with vanilla and lime, often served in the summer.
• Danish strawberries with cream, served in the summer.
• Æbleskiver, (literally "apple slices"), similar to a round American pancake though not the same, Danes eat them through December as a Christmas tradition.
• Ris á la mande, a rice pudding with whipped cream, vanilla flavouring and chopped almonds. Commonly eaten on Christmas Eve, served cold with hot cherry-sauce.

Christmas festivities

Christmas lunch (julefrokost)

A special variation on det kolde bord is the Christmas lunch, a festive holiday smorgasbord, served during the holiday season. A traditional julefrokost is a family event on Christmas Day or shortly after. However, during the whole of December all groups of people (coworkers, members of clubs and organizations) generally hold their own annual julefrokost on a Friday or Saturday. The "lunch" often include music and dancing, and usually continues into the very early hours of the morning with plentiful drinking. All over Denmark trains and buses run all night during the julefrokost season and the police are on a special lookout for drunk drivers.^[23]

A favorite at Christmas lunches is Ris á l'amande, a rice pudding for Christimas, traditionally served with hot or cold cherry sauce; it consists of mainly cold rice pudding with vanilla flavouring and chopped almonds. A Danish tradition is to put a whole almond in the bowl of pudding. The one that finds it wins a present.^[23]

A very special part of not only the julefrokost but of most festive, celebratory meals is the selskabssang (party song). These songs are very special to Denmark. They are sung to traditional tunes, and have specially written lyrics that fit the occasion.^[24]

Christmas dinner at home

In Denmark, the Christmas (or Jul) dinner is served on the evening of 24 December (Christmas Eve). It takes the form of a main dish (usually pork, goose or duck) and the ris á l'amande desert. The traditional recipes from Frk. Jensen's 1901 cook book (see below) still form the basis of Christmas cooking today.^[25]

The roast pork or flæskesteg, a cut from the breast or neck, is roasted in the oven with the skin cut through to the meat in strips, providing more crispy crackling. It is accompanied by both boiled potatoes and caramelized potatoes (brunede kartofler) specially prepared in a frying pan with melted sugar and a clump of butter. Red cabbage, which can be bought in a jar or a can, is always included too.^[26]

Goose and duck are filled with a stuffing of apple boats and prunes before they are roasted in a hot oven. The bird is served with a brown sauce based on the broth obtained by boiling the heart, neck, liver and gizzard, thickened with a little fat from the bird, flour and sour cream. Gravy browning may be added.^[26] Just like the pork, the bird is served with two kinds of potatoes and red cabbage.^[26]

The dessert, ris á l'amande, consists of rice pudding mixed with vanilla, whipped cream and chopped almonds. One whole almond is also included in the serving dish. The person who finds it in his portion receives a small prize.^[26]

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Other popular foods

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Criticism

The Danish food culture is sometimes criticized by gastronomes and independently, by nutritionists. The author and historian Søren Mørch has characterized Danish cuisine as a "garbage kitchen" of insipid, sweet and unspiced "baby food" where the tastes of milk and sweetness are the key elements. He believes that this style arose because the export policy of the Danish food sector was to use the Danes as a "gutter" for the products that were left over when the bacon and butter were sold abroad. Skim milk, meat scraps only suitable for chopping up, and the replacement product margarine are products which Søren Mørch describes as residues.^[46]

Regardless of this, substantial criticism has been directed at the nutritional content of Danish food; for example, at the ratio of meat, side dishes, and salad on the plate. Nutrition information campaigns have been trying to get the Danes to become healthier by eating less meat, fat, and sugar, and more raw vegetables. Instead of a healthier diet, however, the results too often have been feelings of guilt and a view of food as something which is just the correct fuel for the body's machinery.^[47]

Frøken Jensens Kogebog

The cookery book published by Kristine Marie Jensen (1858-1923) in 1901 and titled Frk. Jensens Kogebog (Miss Jensen's Cookbook) is considered by many Danes to contain all the authentic recipes for traditional dishes as well as for baking bread, cakes and biscuits. It has been reprinted dozens of times and new editions can be found in most Danish bookshops today. When Danes prepare meals for special occasions, for example at Christmas time, they frequency follow Frøken Jensen's detailed descriptions.^[48][49] The book has not been translated into English but many of the traditional Danish recipes on English-language websites are those of Frøkken Jensen. The original edition (only in Danish) is available online.^[50]

See also

• List of Michelin starred restaurants in Denmark
• Faroese cuisine
• List of Christmas dishes

References

Bibliography

• Jensen, Kristine Marie (edited and updated by Lundsgaard, Bente Nissen and Bloch, Hanne): Frøken Jensens kogebog, Copenhagen, Gyldendal, 2003, 366 p. (Danish) ISBN 8700212717
• Meyer, Claus: Almanak, Copenhagen, Lindhardt og Ringhof , 2010, 694 p. (Danish) ISBN 9788711430705
• Redzepi, René: Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine, London, Phaidon Press, 2010, 368 p. ISBN 978-0714859033.
• Færch, Tove; Møller, Maja; Hougaard, Anne Kirstine, eds. (2008), Det gode madliv - Karoline, maden og måltidet i kulturen, Arla Foods. (Danish) ISBN 978-87-992509-1-2
• Astrup, Arne; Meyer, Claus (2002), Spis igennem (1. ed.), Politikens Forlag, ISBN 87-567-6742-0  (Danish)

External links

• Danish Food Culture - Copenhagen-Portal.dk
• Christian's Danish Recipes— over 600 Danish recipes in English
• Danish Tourist Board: Tipping whilst eating out

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